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Michelle Waters
1st September 2009 15:27

Precious Metals for Rings

 

After having a discussion about the different types of precious metals used in the rings here at Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, we realised that it can be quite confusing choosing which metal to go for. So we decided to run through the differences for all those thinking of choosing a ring.

Firstly, white metal. There are three basic types of white metal available - platinum, palladium and white gold. Platinum is a 'classic' choice because of its value, durability and steely white colour. It is the toughest and heaviest metal, and works well as a contrast to other metals as well as on its own. If you want to use a brittle stone, like emeralds or opals, platinum is an excellent choice for the setting and band because it gives the best protection from knocks and wear.

Platinum wedding band with a curved inside

A Platinum wedding ring with a curved inside

Palladium is a really good alternative to platinum because although it has the same appearance as platinum, it is described by bullion dealers Johnson Matthey, 'a credit crunch beating metal'. The other difference asides from the cost, is the weight, as although palladium is from the same family as platinum, it weighs considerably less. Palladium has recently been awarded a hallmark; for more information on this, see Angela's recent blog on palladium.

Palladium classic court profile wedding band

Palladium classic court profile wedding band.

Although you may not think it, white gold can also be made to look like platinum through a process known as rhodium plating. This process is commonly used in high street shops to enhance the shine and 'whiteness' of white gold and to achieve the platinum look for a lower cost. Here at Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design we give you the option of whether or not you want this, as it is not permanent and will need re-plating with wear.

18ct white gold wedding band with rhodium plating

18ct white gold wedding band with rhodium plating.

If you like white metal, but want a creamier appearance than the steely colour of platinum and palladium, 18ct white gold is a good choice. 18ct means that it has 18 parts out of 24 of pure gold, whereas 9ct has half this amount. This explains the difference in colour, as 18ct white gold has a larger percentage of pure gold than 9ct white gold and a lower amount of added alloy. One of these alloys found in 18ct white gold is platinum.

18ct white gold 6mm reverse D profile wedding band

18ct white gold 6mm reverse D profile wedding band.

9ct is an even creamier option than 18ct white gold because it has a warmer palette of alloys than 18ct. 9ct white gold looks lovely with yellow and rose gold because they complement the yellow tones in this metal. People with fair skin often choose this metal because it suits their skin tone better than the steely whites of the other metals.

9ct white gold wedding ring with an engraved knot

9ct white gold wedding ring with an engraved knot.

A slightly more unusual choice (and one of our favourites!) is rose gold. The difference between 18ct and 9ct rose gold is quite striking, as 18ct is far more yellowy and can be easily confused with yellow gold. It is generally agreed that 18ct gold is softer than 9ct gold because of the higher percentage of gold and lower percentage of alloys found in it. However, this is an excellent choice for a ring if you cannot choose between yellow and rose gold.

18ct rose gold 6mm wide extra heavy courting profile wedding ring.

18ct rose gold 6mm wide extra heavy courting profile wedding ring.

9ct rose gold gets its rich pink tone from the copper alloy found in it. This metal contrasts beautifully with both yellow and white gold and looks lovely with brown stones like cognac or red diamonds, or smokey quartz.

18ct rose gold 6mm wide extra heavy courting profile wedding ring.

4mm 9ct rose gold wedding band with a courting profile.

As you can see from these two images, the colours of 18ct and 9ct yellow are quite different. 18ct yellow gold is very yellow in appearance, whereas 9ct is a more low-key option. Both metals work well with other colours of metal; for example there are many instances of yellow gold bands with white gold settings as the white metal usually sets off stones better.

Extra heavy 18ct yellow gold courting wedding ring
A 9ct yellow gold extra heavy courting 6mm wedding ring with a polished finish

Extra heavy 18ct yellow gold courting wedding ring and a 9ct yellow gold extra heavy courting 6mm wedding ring with a polished finish.

We hope that this clears up any confusion and helps you make your decision! To see more examples of the above metals, browse our engagement rings galleries or pop in to either studio and have a chat with one of us.

Sian, Michelle and Jodie xxx

Michelle Waters
 

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  • Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, North Barn, Fairclough Hall Farm, Halls Green, Weston, Hertfordshire, SG4 7DP, England
    Phone: +44 (0)1462 790565 Fax: +44 (0)1462 790140 enquiries@hkjewellery.co.uk
  • Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, 6/7 Green Street, Cambridge, Cambridgeshire, CB2 3JU, England.
    Phone: +44 (0)1223 461333 Fax: +44 (0)1223 365269 cambridge@hkjewellery.co.uk

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