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Antoinette Corbishley
7th December 2009 17:18

Channel Setting

 

Due to the evident interest in Vic's setting demonstration during our studio open day at the end of last month, I thought I would explain a little more about the particular setting style Vic was using - channel setting

Channel setting is a popular style as it gives instant yet unfussy glamour and sparkle to any piece of jewellery. Be this to help frame a central stone in an engagement ring, add detail to a simple wedding ring, liven up a pendant, or add dramatic sparkle to an evening necklace.

So what exactly is channel setting? The aptly named method is basically a line of gemstones inlaid into a specially prepared channel cut into the desired piece of jewellery, in order to give the appearance of a continuous uninterrupted line of colour or sparkle.

The goldsmith will carefully cut the channel for the setter, this involves not only opening up the top of the metal where the stones will be laid out and viewed from, but also piecing through to the underside (in the case of a ring, the inside which touches the finger) either circles or squares depending on the shape of the stones to be set.

Channel Setting
Channel Setting

This detail under the stone may seem a nice but pointless decoration as it is only seen when the item of jewellery is taken off and turned upside down, but it is a practical feature as it allows the back of the stones to be cleaned using a small soft headed brush and warm soapy water, dislodging any build up of hand cream or soap, and maintaining the stones have maximum sparkle and clarity.

Now the main channel has been created, the setter then opens this up a little more to the right size for the stone being set, then using a tool called a scorper creates a little grove on the inside of the channel for the girdle (edge) of the stone to click into and sit along.

Pusher tool
Scorper tool

The two sides of the stone which aren't held by metal sit very, very closely next to the neighbouring stone but don't actually touch it, although this is how it appears, especially when square princess cut stones are set.

Palladium and diamond engagement ring

This ring is currently available to buy from our ready to wear collection and is perfect as an engagement, eternity or wedding ring

Brilliant cut stones look slightly different in a channel setting, while still appearing to touch each other in the middle of their curve, the curve of the stones gives a slightly more open look, as a tiny triangular gap is created at the top and bottom edge of the setting strip like this:

18ct yellow gold and diamond engagement ring

When all the stones have been set, you can run your finger over the top of the stones and metal edge holding them in, and not really feel much difference in the levels, so this smooth finish is quite a pure design style where the setting doesn't detract from the stones, as well as being a practical sturdy way to protect the girdles (edges of the stones) from chipping easily or catching on clothing.

Green tourmaline

This is one of my favourite recent designs I worked on for a lovely couple called Ailsa and Neil - a stunning Green tourmaline and channel set princess cut diamond ring. The simple crisp line of diamonds frame and help enhance the beautiful central tourmaline without detracting from it, and give the ring a simple, elegant, timeless Art Deco look.

Drawback to channel setting

One disadvantage of a fully channel set ring, for instance something like this example:

Platinum and diamond

where the stones go the whole way around the ring, is that it is incredibly difficult to re-size due to the spacing of the stones, so when we design a solely channel set ring for our ready to wear collection we will normally only channel set the front half or three quarters of the ring, so there is a small plain section of metal at the back to allow for possible re-size by adding or taking a section of metal away. If a fully set eternity style is what you want, it is therefore very important to be sure of your size before the ring is made.

Channel setting is a very effective, elegant and timeless style and one I wholeheartedly recommend - it's great!

Palladium and Sapphire
Sapphires and Diamonds
White gold and Sapphire
Yellow gold and Diamond

Hope this has inspired you!

Antoinette

Antoinette Corbishley
 

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  • Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, North Barn, Fairclough Hall Farm, Halls Green, Weston, Hertfordshire, SG4 7DP, England
    Phone: +44 (0)1462 790565 Fax: +44 (0)1462 790140 enquiries@hkjewellery.co.uk
  • Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design, 6/7 Green Street, Cambridge, Cambridgeshire, CB2 3JU, England.
    Phone: +44 (0)1223 461333 Fax: +44 (0)1223 365269 cambridge@hkjewellery.co.uk

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