I have recently been working on making an all around setting for a beautiful oval cabochon cut ruby matrix which I will then incorporate into a ring. I have started to hand make this using silver sheet. I start off by turning up some silver which will be the sides of the setting and work it into an oval shape, identical to the shape of the ruby which will sit inside it. This is easier said than done!! I have to slowly shape the metal, annealing it (heating it up) every now and then to keep it workable, until eventually making a setting tailored for this one gemstone. Once I have the perfect fit, I then make a base to go inside this setting for the ruby to sit on. When I have finished making the setting I can fit this into my silver band. This is where a good eye for detail comes in handy! I need to position it perfectly. This ring will be hallmarked by the Assay Office and I can then start working on filing the silver, removing any deep scratches and marks. I get it to a stage where I can set the ruby matrix. This involves very carefully pushing the silver over the gemstone and securing it into place. Once the ruby is in place, I can continue to file the silver, removing every single scratch and mark to the point where it is buffed and finally polished up to a high shine. Watch this space! This ring will soon make its way into one of our showrooms and onto our website for sale.
Deborah Souza-Smith
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