Learn about Asscher Cuts

The Asscher cut is a modified version of the Emerald Cut. It is more brilliant, has a smaller table, deeper pavilion and bigger step facets. It was developed by Joseph Asscher, who was commissioned by the royal family (King Edward VII) to cut the world's largest diamond in history; the 3,106ct Cullinan diamond. It took him 6 months of study to decide what to do with the stone, after which he created 3 individual and perfectly flawless diamonds from the rough-all of them now famous.

After this he invented the now-famous Asscher cut, which reached it's peak of popularity in the 1920s in very limited production. Up until 2001, the Asscher cut was a hard to come by commodity and only really available in antique shops or Art Deco jewellery dealers.

These days we find diamond dealers use the term 'Asscher' to include all stones showing a similar shape in the cut pattern - even those with sharp corners (ie square) are termed 'Asscher'. So the term has developed to mean a squarer proportioned step cut diamond.

Unlike a 58 faceted round brilliant diamond, or even a princess cut diamond, there are many fewer facets carved into the Asscher diamond. As a result of this construction, the diamond appears very glassy and will discriminate against lower colours and clarities with the inclusions visible and the colouration very obvious to the naked eye. This means that if you are considering an Asscher cut for your engagement we will be looking to source, at the very least, a diamond of white colour grade, excellent clarity grade, and a well cut stone.

In 2001, the cut went through considerable research and development and was re-launched with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine. Now Asscher cuts have been revitalized with the increasing popularity of Art Deco style jewellery.

You can expect to pay a 10-20% premium for Asscher cut diamonds, but they really need to be seen to be appreciated. They're not necessarily any more brilliant than round brilliant cuts or have more flashes of light, however they are spectacular diamonds to look at with a unique cut pattern which is very hypnotic. It's worth examining the corners particularly in these stones as colour is more noticeable in those areas.

There is not an ideal proportioned pattern for an Asscher cut, although the pavilion facets on the bottom part of the stone are usually divided into segments or 'steps' of three or four divisions. With a good Asscher cut, the diagonal facets at the edges will be even and in symmetry to the centre of the diamond.

The diamond cutter will craft each Asscher diamond with intent on maximizing light performance and beauty, and the result is a diamond of incredible beauty and timeless appeal. Well cut Asscher diamonds are highly dispersive and scintillating due to their unique facet alignment and are a very attractive alternative to the more rectangular emerald cut shape for your engagement ring.

Find out more about commissioning a bespoke engagement ring